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Vitamin C and Sun Protection
Topical vitamin C protects skin against harm caused
by exposure to sunlight. It is a potent antioxidant
that fights free radicals, the highly reactive molecules
produced by the interaction of sunlight, cell membranes,
and other components of skin tissue. It does not absorb
light, and hence, is not a sunscreen, so it should
not be used in replacement of sunscreen, but rather
is a good companion to sunscreen products. |
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Vitamin C and Collagen
Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that has been proven
to increase collagen synthesis. Collagen synthesis
is essential to maintain healthy skin. Studies show
that collagen decreases with aging and that photoaging
accelerates the decrease. L-ascorbic acid serves as
a signal, relaying a critical message to collagen
genes to synthesize collagen, as well as being a cofactor
for two enzymes important in collagen synthesis.
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Ineffective Vitamin C Preparations
Wanting to offer vitamin C products, many companies
have used derivatives of vitamin C, such as ascorbyl
palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Derivatives
are easier to stabilize, but they are not L-ascorbic
acid, which is the only form of vitamin C the body can
use.
Recent studies indicate that vitamin
C derivatives do not perform the same way as topical
L-ascorbic acid. These studies show that derivatives
are either not absorbed or not converted to L-ascorbic
acid in high enough concentrations to have an effect.
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In the evaluation of any vitamin C product, consider
these factors:
• Does the product contain L-Ascorbic Acid? Sometimes
a product may contain L-Ascorbic Acid within a patented
Vitamin C complex. If a blend or complex appears in
the ingredients, you may need to call the manufacturer
to clarify which forms of Vitamin C are used. This may
include the shortened term Ascorbic Acid.
• If yes, is the L ascorbic acid at a low pH so
that it penetrates the skin and a high enough concentration
to have an effect?
• Is the preparation stable? Look for products
that contain stable L-ascorbic acid at a low pH and
high concentration (10% is good). It is easy to determine
whether a product is color stable, just by looking at
it over time.
• Finally, remember that just because the label
says "vitamin C" doesn't mean the product
contains L-ascorbic acid. |
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After
researching numerous skin care lines, our Skin Care Specialist chose
SkinMedica™ to offer our Skin Care clients. SkinMedica™
Skin Care products are only sold through physicians’ offices.
Their products contain superior formulations of antioxidants, natural
botanicals, and cosmeceuticals for the ultimate rejuvenation of
healthy skin. |
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